Changes in Algerian and North African recipes over the past 30-40 years

I have a decent collection of Algerian and North African cookbooks published in French in North Africa or in France. Next time I go to France and Algeria I'll have access to more through libraries and general bookstores. In studying recipes printed in cookbooks and magazines over the past 30-35 years the most significant differences I see are listed below.

I'm not including North African cookbooks that are heavily Frenchified for a mainstream audience. I'm saving that for a separate post. However, I am including North African cookbooks published in France for a Maghrebine audience. They are for the most part the same as North African cookbooks published in North Africa for the obvious reason that the same books are often distributed in France and North Africa. I'll break down the different kinds of cookbooks in a later post.

1. Higher production values in both French and Algerian published cookbooks. The photographs of food look much cleaner, brighter and fresher than they did 30-35 years ago. This isn't a distinctive feature of North African cookbooks, go back and look through old cookbooks from various food cultures and you'll see what I mean: dark, heavy, dense looking photos of food.

2. More recipes with fresh dairy products: milk, cheese, fresh butter, whipped cream, sour cream, etc... Note, I say MORE, because the use of the ingredients existed before but not as commonly. Smen or fermented butter is used less and less. Margarine is a relatively inexpensive substitute for butter and is a French influence (it was invented in France). It's less expensive than fresh butter and has a longer shelf life.

3. Recipes that call for the use of chicken breasts for dishes such as bricks or boureks. I thought this was more for a French audience or a Franco-Maghrebine audience, but I'm seeing this more often in recipes published in North Africa. A by-product of industrialization, I think.

4. The most dramatic effects seem to be on pastry recipes. I see more recipes with a croissant dough base and vienoisserie type pastries. More chocolate and glaçage too. Vanilla instead of flower waters. Sponge cakes or genoise and tarts are also more common. For example an Algerian balkawa is now also made in the shape of a round tart with a lattice crust. An Algerianized mille-feuille is made with layers of fried warka leaves, rosewater scented pastry cream and garnished with candied almonds.

5. Pasta and noodle recipes now call for packaged pasta more often, rather than always insisting on homemade pasta or noodles. In Algerian cooking the word macaronne (there are regional variations in spelling and pronunciation) refers to dried semolina flour pastas in general.

 

Comments

[Olivia]

That sounds like a fantastic idea.

[Delacour Hakkar habiba]

MERCI

[hakim talbi]

It's absolutely true what you are saying. Algerian food is totally changing and each year I see the influence of TV and travelers on the old Algerian dishes.
Also most of the ingredients changed because of their cost on the market an people are just inventing new cheap ways to make cakes for example.
But if you really know the Algerian cuisine you understand that Algerian dishes differ from one city to another one.
And some dishes are only local secrets like Constantine.
Just if you take the example of couscous you are going to find hundreds of kinds from East to West and North to South.
Or the hrira of Oran don't exist in Constantine or the bradj of Constantine is only made in Spring time.
That's why I prefer if you focus on the local kitchen like Constantine, Jijel, Algiers, Oran or Tlemcen and see what's new on it.

[Rachel Laudan]

This kind of information is so hard to find, Farid. Thanks so much. Is vanilla going to take over the world?

Rachel

[Linda]

Bonjour Chef Zadi,

I'm Linda and it's with a great pleasure that i'm discovering your blog :)
During the Ramadan time, i like to get closer to my roots (like you, my parents are from Algeria)by eating more traditional food from our culture (I often go to "La Bague de Kenza" in Paris to buy kesra, sfenj or baghrir). Thanks to the many recipes displayed, it's a great opportunity to learn much more on North African cuisine and try of course! I added your blog on my favorites cooking websites. I'm also really glad about your success in the USA.

Good luck Chef Zadi :)

Linda